Guastalla is a
neat little town very proud of its statue of Duke Ferrante Gonzaga, and
the Croce Rossa is a neat little inn, which may be proud of a smart young
waiter, who actually discovered that, as I wanted to proceed to Luzzara,
a few miles on, I had better stop till next morning, I did not take his
advice, and was soon under the gate of Luzzara, a very neat little place,
once one of the many possessions where the Gonzagas had a court, a
palace, and a castle. The arms over the archway may still be seen, and
would not be worth any notice but for a remarkable work of terracotta
representing a crown of pines and pine leaves in a wonderful state of
preservation. The whole is so artistically arranged and so natural, that
one might believe it to be one of Luca della Robbia's works. Luzzara has
also a great tower, which I had seen in the distance from Dosalo, and the
only albergo in the place gives you an excellent Italian dinner. The wine
might please one of the greatest admirers of sherry, and if you are not
given feather beds, the beds are at least clean like the rooms
themselves.
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